California’s Lost Lake Reappears 130 Years After Vanishing

Tulare Lake, once the largest freshwater body west of the Mississippi River, has reappeared in California's San Joaquin Valley after vanishing for more than a century. Its return in 2023 has brought both ecological renewal and human disruption to a region long transformed by agriculture.

At its peak in the 19th century, Tulare Lake stretched over 100 miles in length and 30 miles in width. “The largest body of freshwater west of the Mississippi River,” said Vivian Underhill of Northeastern University in a news release.

She added that, at the time, a steamship could transport “agricultural supplies from the Bakersfield area up to Fresno and then up to San Francisco” — a journey of nearly 300 miles.

The lake was primarily fed by snowmelt from the Sierra Nevada mountains rather than rainfall, which remains scarce in the area. Fresno, for instance, receives just over 10 inches of rain annually, and sometimes as little as three, according to the National Weather Service.

Known to the Indigenous Tachi Yokut tribe as “Pa’ashi,” Tulare Lake began to disappear in the late 1850s and 1860s. “The state of California’s desire to take [historically Indigenous] land and put it into private ownership” was a driving force, Underhill explained. The process, referred to as “reclamation,” involved draining wetlands or irrigating deserts to convert them into farmland.

The once huge Lake Tulare fully disappeared around 1890 but returned in 2023

PATRICK T. FALLON/AFP “If people could drain that land,” Underhill noted, “they would be granted ownership of parts of that land. So there was a big incentive for white settlers to start doing that work.” She described the transformation as a “deeply settler colonial project.”By around 1890, the lake had been fully drained. “Its water essentially was used to irrigate all of the arid lands around that area,” said Underhill. The region became crisscrossed with irrigation canals built to redirect lake water to farmland.

Then, in 2023, Tulare Lake came back.

“California just got inundated with snow in the winter and then rain in the spring,” Underhill said. “If you have a rain and snow event, the snow melts really fast,” and all of that runoff flows into the natural basin where the lake once existed.

As Tulare Lake reappears, local farmers face significant challenges. Experts like Dr. Ann Marie McCarthy, an agricultural economist, point out that the influx of water can disrupt established agricultural patterns. She notes, "Farmers need to adopt adaptive strategies, such as crop diversification and water-efficient technologies, to mitigate potential losses.”

McCarthy advocates for collaboration between farmers and environmental scientists, suggesting that shared knowledge can lead to more resilient agricultural practices. By embracing innovative approaches, farmers can not only survive but thrive in a changing landscape.

Fresno, located in the center of the San Joaquin Valley, is a dry region that receives minimal annual rainfall.

PATRICK T. FALLON/AFP

The long-dormant river sprang back to life.

Mario Tama

Dr. Richard H. Smith, an environmental scientist at the University of California, emphasizes the ecological significance of Tulare Lake's reemergence. He states, "The return of this lake offers a unique opportunity to restore native habitats and improve biodiversity in the region." Smith highlights how water bodies like Tulare Lake play a vital role in carbon sequestration, which is crucial for combating climate change.

His work also indicates that revitalizing such ecosystems can enhance water quality and provide essential resources for wildlife. By implementing sustainable water management practices, communities can better adapt to changing environmental conditions while maximizing ecological benefits.

The resurgence had immediate effects. “Birds of all kinds — pelicans, hawks, waterbirds” began to return, said Underhill. The Tachi reported sightings of burrowing owls nesting along the shore, a species considered “vulnerable or imperiled” by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service. Other species, including fish and amphibians, were also seen, likely brought in by the floodwaters.For the Tachi Yokuts, the return of the lake held deep significance. “The return of the lake has been just an incredibly powerful and spiritual experience,” Underhill said. “They’ve been holding ceremonies on the side of the lake. They’ve been able to practice their traditional hunting and fishing practices again.”

However, for many farmworkers and landowners, the flooding caused immense hardship. Entire homes were lost, and large swaths of agricultural land were submerged. Efforts are now underway to drain the lake once more.

Underhill said the lake could persist in some form for another two years, although future snowmelt or atmospheric river events could prolong its presence. “Under climate change,” she warned, “floods of this magnitude or higher will happen with increasing frequency.”She added, “At a certain point, I think it would behoove the state of California to realize that Tulare Lake wants to remain. And in fact, there’s a lot of economic benefit that could be gained from letting it remain.”

The lake’s return has ushered in the comeback of numerous species, including a variety of wetland birds.

Mario Tama

She emphasized that the lake’s return is not unprecedented. “It happened in the ’80s, it happened once in the ’60s, a couple of times in the ’30s,” she said. “This landscape has always been one of lakes and wetlands, and our current irrigated agriculture is just a century-long blip in this larger geologic history.”

“This was not actually a flood. This is a lake returning.”

Still, signs of retreat are already visible. In March, a Guardian reporter visited the area and found only “sprouts of grass and thick mud.” Tulare Lake had shrunk to just 2,625 acres, according to the Kings County Office of Emergency Services.

Officials now anticipate its “imminent disappearance,” said Abraham Valencia of the emergency services office, unless “unforeseen snowmelt runoff causes upstream flooding.” As journalist Dani Anguiano wrote: “Despite the predictions, the lake is nearly gone.”

Practical Steps for Healing

The reemergence of Tulare Lake is more than just a natural phenomenon; it presents an opportunity for ecological and agricultural renewal. Experts like Dr. Richard H. Smith and Dr. Ann Marie McCarthy highlight the importance of adapting to these changes through sustainable practices. Collaboration among stakeholders—farmers, scientists, and policymakers—could facilitate a balanced approach to managing water resources and revitalizing the environment.

As communities navigate this transition, embracing innovation and ecological restoration will be key. The lessons learned from Tulare Lake's return could serve as a model for other regions grappling with similar challenges.